German Wines

Wine consumption in Germany has remained stable since 1980, though statistically it has fallen slightly since German reunification in 1990, from 26 litres annually per capita to 22.5 litres This is due to the drinking habits of the former East Germans who are less partial to wine (16 litres per capita compared to 26 litres in the west). There has been a distinct trend towards higher quality wine in recent years. Consumption of sparkling wine has increased and it is interesting to note that former East Germans prefer lightly sweeter wines compared to their western counterparts. Imports account for just under half the total wine consumption.
Exports of German wines have increased continually since 1970, accounting for around 25 per cent of production (in 1993 there was a slight decrease), though this is considerably less than the volume imported. The export share of lightly sweet and nobly sweet wines is noteworthy, going against the international trend for dry wines. The USA and Japan are the main customers.
In Germany grape picking usually begins in the last week of September depending on the growing region and continues until late October, though certain wines may be harvested even later. Vineyard yields are restricted by law and the maximum varies from 80 hectolitres per hectare to 140 hectolitres per hectare, depending on region and grape variety, while the average during recent years has been just under 100 hectolitres per hectare. In 1993 it was down to 75 hectolitres per hectare and in some years quantities are even lower.
Germany is fairly uniform when it comes to viticultural practices. Almost everywhere vines are supported by a wire framework, known as the guyot training system. Ecological awareness is increasing. Top growers especially no longer use chemical sprays, and fertilisers are reduced to a minimum. Insecticides and fungicides are nowadays only employed when absolutely necessary.
Due to Germany's northerly position her white wines - which make up the bulk of production - are appealing due to their relatively low alcohol content and comparatively high acidity. The acidity is left in its natural form on purpose and wines do not usually undergo malolactic fermentation. Alcohol may be increased by chaptalisation (adding sugar to the grape juice), but only for simple 'Qualitätsweine', which make up between 30 per cent and 70 per cent of production. The extra alcohol may not exceed 3.5 per cent by volume.
Germany is the only large wine-growing nation which divides its quality wines into two categories. They are 'Qualitätsweine bestimmter Anbaugebiete' or QbA (Quality Wines from Specific Growing Areas) and the higher grade 'Qualitätsweine mit Prädikat' or QmP (Quality Wines of Distinction). The latter encompasses the superior designations Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beeren-Auslese, Trocken-Beeren-Auslese and Eiswein. The criteria for determining a wine's position in this hierarchy is the sugar level in the grapes. As mentioned above, simple QbA wines may be 'improved' by the addition of sugar to the juice before fermentation, a practice forbidden for QmP wines. In addition, maximum vineyard yields for QmP wines are more restricted in some regions, along with other more severe regulations in the interest of quality.
According to proposals for a new wine law made in 1994 these restrictions are to be partially relaxed. In order to protect growers against competition from southern Europe a new category, 'Qualitätsweine garantierten Urprungs' - QgU or Quality Wine of Guaranteed Origin - has been proposed and according to these regulations certain regulations governing the production of QmP wines are to be abolished. The 'origin' is to be defined in a much broader sense than hitherto and grapes may come from outside the locality stated on the label. They also allow for Auslese and other top quality grapes to be machine harvested. Quality-oriented producers fear a flood of industrially produced Eiswein, to name but one example. The law was presented in this form in spite of objections by associations of top growers.